You’ve gotta love a place where you can toss your peanut shells on the floor. If that were all the Steamboat Smokehouse had to recommend, this article would end here, but besides its informal ambiance, the Smokehouse has great barbeque!

Owner Fritz Aurin, a former Oklahoma attorney who enjoyed skiing more than jurisprudence, opened the Smokehouse a mere year ago in what was thought to be a “slow” location. No more. Afternoons and evenings find the bar packed with visitors and locals alike and the restaurant caters to those with a yen for some of the finest smoked BBQ ribs in the mountains. After supper hours it’s also “entertainment central”, featuring some of the town’s best live music jam sessions.

The Smokehouse’s barrel of roasted and salted in-the-shell peanuts (400 pounds a week are consumed during ski season) was inspired by Baker’s Rib in Dallas (and the original sawdust floors in Angelo’s in Fort Worth). In another Texas tradition, the Smokehouse serves its draft beer in frozen, frosted schooners the size of fishbowls (10, 18, and 32 oz). And you’ll have to agree, the beer just tastes better. Beside standard American brews, the Smokehouse’s best beer – to my thinking – is Pete’s Wicked Ale, a delicious, hearty American reminiscent of the finest English ales. This is in limited supply in most places, but the Smokehouse seems to have it in abundance and appreciative patrons suck it down by the keg.

When it comes to smoked meats, the Smokehouse has also done its homework. This stuff is delicious, genuine smoked food, folks. Prior to opening, Aurin visited some of Texas’ best barbeque establishments, including Gaylen’s in Arlington, and learned a few trade secrets which he speaks about circumspectly. All smoking is done on the premises on flat rack smokers and meats are seasoned with a “secret rub” (salt, black pepper, garlic, chili powder, sugar, and “secret stuff”) prior to cooking.

“We experimented with lots of rubs before we hit the best combination of spices,” says Aurin. This is a fine distinction for lovers of good BBQ – juicy, lean meat with a smoked flavor which seems a part of the meat. Low rent BBQ is often cooked meat tossed into hot BBQ sauce to give it flavor. “We NEVER smoke our meat with sauce on it,” says Aurin disdainfully. “We feel it impedes the smoked flavor.”

That smoked flavor comes from hickory which Aurin has shipped in. “We just felt it produces the best flavor in our beef and pork,” he says simply. The pork ribs, juicy with an extra layer of tenderloin that just falls off the bone, are already legendary as is the beef brisket and the “Road Kill Specials,” like succulent prime rib and buffalo roast. Elk or buffalo sausage, and other wild game specials abound during the ski season. Afterwards, top it all off with a superb rum-flavored pecan cobbler or a great Grand Marnier carrot cake.

Ambiance is a large part of the Smokehouse appeal. You know a place is comfortably informal when a small plaque attached to your table warns: “Caution Table Dancers: Capacity Limited to 472 Pounds.” Elk and Mule deer heads line the hand-fitted stone walls and the bar has its own gag specials from Mr. And Mrs. Jackalope to a box of “Road Kill Helper” by Betty Trucker. The brave of heart and lame of brain might try the Smokehouse’s “Firewater” – well-named since it features a premier tequila soaked in jalepenos and red peppers for four days. Bring an extinguisher.

All this rowdy pretense shouldn’t deter families from the Smokehouse – it’s all in good humor and the place is pussy-cat tame – at least during restaurant hours. Kids love it! The Smokehouse also caters and ask about whole smoked turkeys, hams and brisket which they will deliver. Master Card and Visa accepted.